Times are hard, money is tight, but there is always a silver lining. Right? No matter what people say, the fact is, the economy is not turning around yet. If you read Women's Wear Daily, you would see that every single day there are articles about which companies are failing and the continued lack of industry jobs. (I'll speak my peace on industry jobs in a moment). The silver lining is the occasional feature on brands that are expanding and new companies breaking through the woodwork. Mostly, the fashion world is changing drastically and whoever survives, when this all blows over, will be quite triumphant sons of bitches.
Getting back to industry jobs... there are none. I graduated from FIT in the Spring of 2009. Before the economy went south professors preached to students to choose first jobs carefully, we would be pigeonhold based on our choices, start high end and work your down, etc. etc. These were the rules as far as being a successful designer. By Spring, they were talking a whole different story. Our professors were even trying not to let their own jobs slip through their fingers. "Take what you can get," & "Good luck" became the theme of our graduating semester. We were warned not to work for free, as in not to take unpaid internships because we would contribute to the destruction of the industry. Senior designers would never receive the salaries that once supported a comfortable lifestlye after 20 years in the industry. Companies would now take risks on less experienced designers in order to cut costs. In my experience, as a specialized knitwear designer, my resentment lies in the fact that companies are shifting wovens designers to knitwear positions instead of hiring a qualified and skilled knitwear designer. This of course is because it's "cheaper", but not really, and I am one of many who suffer because of it. On a good day in 2008, an entry level knitwear designer would receive a 45k salary.
This year, the situation is much worse for the graduated class of 2010. "Sorry," with a shoulder shrug is all anyone can offer. Worked to the bone from intense term projects and unprepared for surviving the industry, all entry level designers can do is wait, take on internships, or move onto something else. They have no choice but to work for little or nothing if they want to stay in the biz.
So why stay in this field? Because we love the shit out of fashion. Because we believe in our instincts of forecasting trends. And because we want to get our ideas out there for the world to appreciate and use as inspiration and forms of self-expression. Fact is, in a lousy economy the most exciting fashion trends come about. Pay attention. See all the different, innovative design concepts that are out there right now? Consumers aren't interested in the basic t-shirt anymore. There has to be an element of something special, something quality, and something that can be worn for years or even passed down as heirlooms. Times are rough but fashion is fighting the good fight right now. Those designers who have not found work, but have the talent, are doing their own thing to stay afloat and keep from being discouraged. I'm in that category along with many of my peers. We're broke but we've got hope and a hustle. This is the greatest challenge and the riskiest time to start a business but why the hell not? It's not like we have anything to lose.
*Lindsay Alicia is taking her hustle to markets and events throughout NYC including TheMarketNYC this Sunday August 29th on Mulberry St. Come by to say hello or to vent about the industry. www.lindsayalicia.com
This is all soooo true. I graduated in 2002 and had all my professors telling us that we would have no problem scoring a job soon after graduation and would be making plenty of money. Wow, so all my hard work and dedication and being piss broke for years and years would finally pay off! Not the case, my first job which wasn't even what I wanted to do paid $24,500 a year and I had to work like 2 part time jobs just to make ends meet. This was of course after 9-11 so everything had gone to shit by then anyway. Anyway, still took me 5 or 6 years to even make more than a livable salary a year and my old professors at FIT who still have no idea what's going on ask me "So, you are living in Manhattan now, right?" uhhh, no, not quite! They still tell me I should be making enough in a week to cover rent on a decent Manhattan rental. Times ain't what they used to be! The sad thing is, a lot of what we do is becoming a lost art as well and it's really hard to get respect from anyone. Sigh.....Woven designers hired to do knitwear, kids graduating with an associates in graphic design being hired as textile designers. Does it matter at all that I have a BFA in textiles? That I took crazy history of textile design classes and wrote papers based on ONE single piece of fabric that is displayed at the MET? That I have a fine arts degree to back it up as WELL as roughly the same knowledge and computer skills as anyone with a graphic design degree? Sorry, had to vent there :) This is why it's so awesome that you are doing your own thing!! I love it!
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